Spielberg has his “Disclosure Day,” when aliens descend, but the Spoiled Guest recently spent Ascension Day, when Christ ascends, in Munich, Germany. If we could experience only one miracle, we’d choose the latter.

It had been almost eight years since our last trip to central Europe, and the Spoiled Guest wanted to revisit three of his favorite cities — Munich, Vienna, and Salzburg, as well as an Austrian lake — Lake Fuschl — that he’d been drawn to since he first saw it in a random screensaver shot a decade ago. So this last May, SG and his wife embarked on a two-week journey of revisitation and discovery.

After navigating the dreaded within-security bus transfer between the domestic and international terminals at Newark International (including a climb, with our carry-ons, up two flights of dingy stairs to reach the international concourse level), the Lufthansa lounge is pleasant and well-catered. Departure turns chaotic at the gate, however (late boarding, poor signage, a ridiculously large coterie of supposed invalids requiring early boarding). But once aboard our Lufthansa flight, we find roomy enclosed business class pods with perhaps excessively techy touch controls for everything. Excellent food, friendly attendants. Perhaps 4 hours’ sleep.

Arrival at Munich’s airport is awful. We’re arriving on the national carrier at a major international hub, yet we’re provided stairs to a bus rather than a jetway, then subjected to absurdly duplicative biometric hoop-jumping through immigration, where the gatekeepers stare endlessly at their screens waiting for our data to load. God knows what it would be like with more than a handful of us non-EU types to process.

Finally we find our friendly, efficient driver who takes us to the Mandarin Oriental Hotel near the heart of Munich’s Old Town. We’re given a charming, spacious suite, though I’m not crazy about the rather somber color palette, and the spacious bath is off the foyer rather than the bedroom. Not like our absurdly plush upgrade last visit, but oh well.

We have a so-so lunch in the oddly-furnished “lounge” (which translates into tables too low to eat from properly). Then a surprisingly disappointing dinner at [Nobu] Matsuhisa. The food is fine, but the service is haphazard. The place badly misses the former manager, Eleni Vlastou, who became a friend on our last visit here. But the evening’s saved by a delightful captain in the lounge, who faultlessly produces our nightcaps and a fabulous apple strudel with pistachio gelato.

Next day, to our Protestant surprise, is Ascension Day, forty days after Easter, when Jesus was taken up into the heavens. Every business is closed in Munich, but what better time to visit three of the old town’s most beautiful churches, all within easy walking distance of each other. For the record, our favorite of the three was St. Peter’s, but by far the most baroque was the Asam Church, in the converted townhouse of the Asam brothers, two of Munich’s most famous and eccentric architects.

Overall, I’d give the Mandarin Munich a B+. Its location near the Marienplatz is its strong suit, but we’ll try the Rosewood next time.

Our finest dinner in Munich by far was at Restaurant Halali, which the Spoiled Guest used for a setting in the opening chapter of his speculative novel, Lifers, without having ever been there. Now, at last, the opportunity to see it in the flesh, as it were. It does not disappoint. Friendly fellow patrons, none of them tourists, traditional but unstuffy atmosphere, charming service, excellent contemporary German cuisine. Read the book, then go there. A+

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Last visit, we traveled from east to west, including a train ride from Vienna to Salzburg. This time it’s west to east, starting with an easy 2-hour drive with a charming driver from Munich to Salzburg.

The Hotel Sacher Salzburg was undergoing a noisy remodel last time we were here, but now we enjoy the result: everything gleams as though it were new. We’re assigned a delightful suite with a balcony overlooking the Salzach River and the Old Town. Spacious bath, tons of closet and drawer space in a walk-through dressing area. Beautiful bar, nice cafe’ for breakfast. And most of all, a welcoming and helpful staff. Gets an A.

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One late morning we stumble upon the queue for a noontime organ recital in Salzburg Cathedral, and for nine Euros are treated to one of the most beautiful religious settings and sublime musical renditions in all of Christendom.

For dinner in Salzburg, we tried the Blaue Ganz and St. Peter Stiftskulinarium, both enjoyable with delightful local fare and informal atmospheres, the latter adjacent to St. Peter’s Church.

After barely a half hour drive from Salzburg through delightful countryside, we arrive at Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, on beautiful Lake Fuschl (in German, the “Fuschlsee”). The Rosewood’s greeter takes us to our room, which, to our dismay, is up five flights of centuries-old stairs. There’s much up and down climbing in this ancient structure (it was the hunting lodge of the archbishop of Salzburg in the 1400s), and there is no elevator in the tower that houses the most upscale suites.

Worse, though, the perfectly nice room we’re shown to, with a stunning view over the lake, has a tiny bath with a single sink and a shower, no tub. We’re torn between our delight at the view an our disappointment in the bath, and on consulting the Rosewood webpage for room option specs, decide to ask for an upgrade to a Deluxe Heritage Suite. The front desk is happy to oblige for another 680 Euros a night and a warning that the suite is still another floor higher in the elevator-less tower. Twin sinks and a tub are an easy yes for the Spoiled Guest, and after another climb (and another tip to the herculean porter) we’re in a truly glorious suite with the same stunning view, beautiful bed, and a far superior bathroom.

We tour the amazing spa and make a res for massages tomorrow. The grounds are upscale mountain rustic, in a uniquely Austrian way. A movie was made about Princess Sissi on this site in 1954, and we can see why. The view justifies all. Dinner that night in the Schloss “fine dining” restaurant (there are two dining venues), and it’s just that — fine, nothing particularly memorable, except the traditional giant merengue dessert that I’d seen served in Saltzburg and wanted to try. Amazing.

Next morning we have breakfast in the fine dining venue and we’re off for a 2-mile stroll along the lake, lovely hiking path impeccably maintained (of course), mildly challenging, green and gorgeous. Lake color is positively Caribbean. Friendly hikers pass on the 11-kilometer circuit around the lake. Back to the schloss for a nice lunch of tuna crudo and oysters with a delicious vinaigrette, then to the beautiful, modern spa for our twin massages, also excellent. I take a dip in the striking indoor pool, sip some tea, and read for a bit before SG’s wife declares she needs a “snack,” so it’s back to the Princess Sissi tea room for a veal tartar and rose’ — again superb.

NOTE: this hotel is not for those with mobility issues. Many stairs to get anywhere, and only the newer, lower-storey units from its Marriott days are serviced by an elevator.

But even with the major drawback of the six flights (which felt like more) to and from our suite, and the lesser issue of only two dining venues (though we belatedly realized it wouldn’t be hard to pop over to Saltzburg for dinner), the Rosewood Schloss Fuschl gets an A, largely because of its incomparable setting.

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With great reluctance we bid Lake Fuschl adieu, and our trip from Salzburg to Vienna by train is fine, but next time the Spoiled Guest would just hire a driver and skip the inevitable bs (and additional time) of navigating two unfamiliar train stations.

On arrival (and after the absurd process of finding our driver in the sprawling Vienna train station), the Hotel Sacher Wein looks polished (refurbishment was happening here too when we were here eight years ago). Much friendlier, more professional greet staff, and were assigned a beautiful corner suite on the very top floor with a large open air terrace on two sides (though not facing the Opera House, which we can forgive). It’s the “Katja Kabanowa Suite,” with another odd layout so typical of old buildings like this one, a wall where it shouldn’t be, and strangely sparse on closets and drawers. Still, a beauty for our last few nights. Delightful, bright breakfast venue with buffet and à la carte menu, and of course the amazing Blue Bar (when you can get in!)

The major downside of Sacher Wein, however, is that it’s a tourist attraction in its own right, drawing hordes of non-guests wanting to say they’ve had a Sacher torte there, etc. (And BTW, the levels of tourist crowding throughout our trip seemed exponentially greater than several years ago — there is really no off- or shoulder season anymore.) Still, I’d give Sacher Wein and A- for effort.

We took the opportunity to check out the Rosewood Vienna, and though we didn’t see a room, we did have lunch there and found it a far more serene, private, and inviting atmosphere than the Sacher. Next time. One of our finest meals in Vienna was dinner at Cantinetta Antinori, a delightful upscale Italian venue, highlighted by their offering of one of my favorite Tuscan wines, Tignanello, by the glass! Unheard of, but this place is part owned by the winery.

Our cultural highlights in Vienna were the astounding Natural History Museum, and the equally sublime and immense Art History Museum, each a deep, immersive dive into incredible collections of surpassing beauty and cultural significance. A day each are not enough.

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Anticlimax: Things start off smoothly enough at Vienna International — security checkpoint is efficient, then things deteriorate. Huge line at the concourse entrance to redundantly check passports and boarding passes, then again at the gate, where there is no quarter given for business class, and zero boarding line signage. What is it about European departure procedures that permits this sort of chaos? VIP escort next time, please (we’re spoiled, after all).

Once finally aboard our Austrian Airlines plane, all is rosy. Nice pods, attentive, pleasant attendants, great food — reminiscent of Turkish Airlines, which Austrian may be trying to emulate. As pleasant a10-hour flight home as can be, and we’re dreaming already of our return to these wonderful highlights of all that Europe has to offer.